The buzz around Salt of the Earth among Pittsburgh foodies has been significant, but the reward for the wait is probably the best dining in the city. Head Chef Kevin Sousa’s reputation of creativity has fueled much of that excitement, crafting a menu that is bold and sophisticated but also accessible.
There is a large main area downstairs with three sections: a counter facing the open kitchen, a bar, and a large common area with three or four communal tables. These areas are all first come, first serve, and the wait can be long on a weekend. There are no printed menus; your options are on a chalkboard that occupies an entire wall of the open space, modified through the night as items become sold out or freshly available. The restaurant’s light wood and stainless steel are modern and clean, but the bustle and sound of people coming and going keep the atmosphere friendly and warm. There is second floor loft space overlooking the common area with private tables meant for reservations. These are the best option for a quiet dinner date and are where my wife and I sat.
We started with two appetizer courses, and the portions were small and focused. We ordered the octopus and beet dishes. Their inventive combinations, per the menu:
Octopus - chorizo, potato, olive, almond
Beets - frisée, truffle-mustard, poached egg
The octopus was a real treat. I’ve had rubbery octopus even at decent restaurants, but this was expertly prepared. The olives were especially interesting, a noted contrast but fitting in nicely with the light saltiness of the dish. The beets were delicious, not mushy or hard, and the poached egg made for a delightful creamy composition. Each individual component of the meal was carefully selected; there were no weak points on our plates. Our entrées came next:
Sturgeon - cauliflower, buckwheat, Swiss chard
Lamb Loin - celeriac, pumpkin, date
Both were fantastic. The sturgeon had a striking preparation. Fish is often prepared so lightly that it feels like you are tiptoeing through it, but this had a lot of flavor. The buckwheat was toasted, a textural joy that we did not expect. The lamb loin was also excellent: the cut was handsome and the preparation a perfect medium rare. Date jelly and pumpkin made the dish very appropriate for the dreary, cool night, and the portions on both dishes were ideal. We ordered two desserts as well, having already fallen into the rabbit hole and wanting to see where we would go next.
Cheese - Midnight Moon goat, Maytag bleu, quince, maple, bacon
Pudding - chocolate, goji berry, coconut, hazelnut
Both had avant-garde surprises that I dare not spoil; the desserts were the coup de grace for a dinner already full of surprises. Kevin Sousa’s reputation for innovation is well earned. We were stuffed by the end of the meal and felt as if we had been on a whirlwind culinary tour.
We created our own adventure through the menu and each item was unique, not found on other local menus. The twist is that, with six items and the corkage fee (modest for champagne served in a chilling tub); the entire bill was just over $100. It is dissonant, thinking to pay so little for an excellent dining experience that could command twice its price without complaint. I cannot recommend it enough.
Salt of the Earth
5523 Penn Avenue, Pittsburgh, PA 15206
http://www.saltpgh.com/
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